Policing in Palestine Blog 1: Welcome to Palestine

Well – where to start really ……?  It’s a world away from Local Policing in Telford, Shropshire, that’s for certain.  Having arrived in Jerusalem, you first become aware of it’s altitude on the drive from Tel Aviv airport – it’s almost constantly uphill and at a height above sea level of 806m, (2700ft), I was conscious of my ears popping as we approached Jerusalem.  The city is like many other modern continental cities but very undulating and spread out, with it’s heart being the Old Town, (the original walled town with spectacular gated entrances) and a nearby modern new town area, comprising many bars, restaurants and modern shops.  This central area is actually very compact, with all main attractions within walking distance….once you get your bearings.  What is immediately apparent is the difference within the Old Town between the various religious and cultural sectors.  The Jewish and Armenian sectors are very organized, clean and wealthy, whereas the Arabic sector is more typically chaotic and seemingly run down in places, but equally appealing due to the vibrant street scenes that immediately confront you through a confusing maze of alleyways, cobbled streets, souks and markets stalls that launch an invasion on your five senses – the smells of Arabic coffee, spices and incense is most pronounced – with the local shop keepers desperately trying to free their “western victims” of their many shekels with all types of produce and gifts.  For those of you who may have experienced Marrakech, it’s not dissimilar.

My first day’s work and drive into the West Bank and onto Ramallah brought life here into immediate reality and provided an intense awareness of life under occupation.  We drove by miles of separation wall – an ugly construction that “does what it says on the tin” – at a height of a two story building complete with watch towers and bordered by a no-mans land of sterile ground containing rolls of tangled razor wire – it separates the Palestinian territories from Israel.  The Wall is interspersed with a large number of check points through which everyone seeking entry into the West Bank has to travel.  At some points, the queues can be long and frustrating, producing occasional tensions and hostility.  We have the luxury of generally entering through Check Point 5 – one reserved for Consulate, Diplomatic and Special Pass access – so our delay is minimal.  The Palestinian workers travelling daily by foot into Israel have to wait in what can only be described as cattle pens, whilst each person is checked and often searched before they can proceed.  When returning home from work, they have to endure the same indignity – and we complain that we are occasionally held up by a tractor as we drive to work ! As we proceeded into the West Bank more deeply, one experiences the marked difference in lack of obvious affluence apparent in Israel – the basic amenities, road structure and repairs are obviously lacking and it does feel like a different country within a country.  It only serves to enhance the feeling of occupation that is strongly felt by all Palestinians – a feeling that they are kept at an intended economic disadvantage by the nation that surrounds them.

However, my arrival at the Eupol Copps Mission HQ in Ramallah was greeted by a sincere welcome and friendliness by both the International and local staff alike.  The local staff who work with us are so amazingly upbeat, positive and encouraging, as indeed are the Palestinian Civil Police, (PCP), personnel who are our counterparts in the development of their Police Service and with whom we work on a daily basis to formulate plans and deliver improvements to the service they aspire to provide.  Despite the years of strife and destruction, (the last Intifada between 2000 and 2006 saw the Israelis launch air strikes against all their main Police Stations and communications infrastructures), they remain positive and enthusiastic about the future and are very much working towards developing a modern policing service and supportive legal departments, in readiness for finally achieving full independence and state ship, through the peace process.

In my next blog, I’ll share my experiences and observations of what life’s actually like on the ground for the Palestinian Police, working under huge restrictions imposed by the Israelis and how their control rooms are like taking a journey back in a Tardis to 1980 when I first joined West Mercia!