Nad-e Ali blog 11: Out of the one pot into the frying pan
There is nothing quite like looking back on Shazad life from a pavement café in the sun whilst sipping a double espresso - even if the café is in Stockport. I've just got back to Helmand after a two week break. It's interesting the things that bring pleasure after spending almost a year in Nad-e Ali. Espresso aside, it was great fun buying fresh produce and cooking. I can heartily recommend the BBC One Pot Cookbook and, yeah got to admit it, Jamie Oliver's Italy cookbook. Mercy, there are some delicious dishes in those books and so easy. Go on, give it a go!
Then a few days visiting friends in Amsterdam (another great espresso city) took me to Arnhem, the final objective of Operation Market Garden, which was portrayed in the movie A Bridge Too Far. The Commonwealth War Graves, in their inimitable style, maintain an immaculate cemetery in Oosterbeek close to a fascinating museum. It was poignant to visit this having worked in Shazad with 3 Para who were heavily involved in Market Garden.
On the way back I stopped overnight in the marbled palaces (well not literally the palace bit - but even the Airport Premier Inn is lined with marble) of Dubai, followed by the two hour flight to Bastion and back to the heat and dust. After the coolish northern European summer temperatures it did feel fairly warm. From 14 degrees to 44 degrees.
Life in the Patrol Bases does not stop whilst anyone is on leave. The pace continues frenetically. Fortunately there were no fatalities while I was away but still the number of Improvised Explosive Device (IED) strikes continues and the number of lads hurt in them. The pace of the fighting season has picked up and the number of firing incidents with it. The Taliban seem to have realised they cannot match ISAF so "shoot n'scoots" and IEDs seem to be the response.
I stopped off on the way back at my HQ, the Lashkar Gah-based, UK led Provincial Reconstruction Team (PRT), to learn the latest policy developments as we begin the process of "transition". Through this process the Afghan Government take over the reins of security in a growing number of areas and the systems we have helped them establish for governance, education, health care and other services.
I also wanted to make sure that my funding bids were firmly lodged for various projects I want to complete: the refurbishment of a bazaar in a village we have cleared recently; and, if security allows, a clinic and school to go with it. After talking to the elders and government officials we all agreed that rebuilding the bazaar would be a valuable first step in helping the community re-establish itself after the Taliban. And then there are other projects to pursue: a school refurbishment which has been very tough to pull together but, finally, after 8 months is on the slipway, agricultural programs to get farmers off poppy planting and in to what are commonly referred to as "alternative livelihoods". But there are no magic bullets, sadly, just lead ones.
With the start of the holy month of Ramadan, where Muslims fast from sunrise to sunset in the summer heat, it is slow going but we are getting there. I'm just glad to be back with the terrific team here - and that I brought some very good espresso coffee with me...... ;-) So, a great leave. Out of the BBC One Pot into the frying pan of Helmand.